If you just want to buy an assembled and tested airgap flash, I have made an updated versions that can be purchased at Information Unlimited.
In my quest to capture amazing high speed photographs I notice that when photographing shooting bullets the bullets were blurred. I found that standard xenon tube, which standard flashes use, is very bright for the energy put into it because of glowing xenon gas. The book Electronic Flash Strobe by Harold Edgerton explains all the calculations, but in practice this means all the flashes from Nikon, Canon and others that use xenon flash tubes have a minimum duration of 1/40,000th of a second. That’s fast enough for most things, but not for a shooting bullet travels around 1000 feet/second. In 1/40,000th of a second that bullet can travel about 1/3rd of an inch leading to blurry photographs of bullets.
To solve this I had to make a faster flash. I’m certainly not the first to do this. I think that was Harold Edgerton. He actually created a company called EG&G to sell a product called the 549 Microflash, but that company has been dissolved and the product discontinued. Sometimes you can still find these flash units on ebay, but the ones I saw were selling for $8K+. There is also a company called Prism Science Works making a modern version of these for researchers, but you’ll need really deep pockets to afford one of those. I saw directions on how to build one in the August 1974 issue of Scientific America and emailed Alan who had already built a few. After this research I realized I could build a sub-microsecond flash for just a few hundred dollars. A sub-microsecond flash means the flash duration is less than 1/1,000,000th of a second or about 25 times faster than a xenon flash.
I am a strong believer in sharing knowledge so I’ll explain how I made my air-gap flash, but I am knowledgeable with high voltage safety procedures. You should not build this because this flash will kill you. It really will. This flash requires charging a 35,000 volt capacitor that will easily kill a person for a single mistake. I have a safety checklist that I use ever time I plug in this flash and it still scares me. If it didn’t scare me then I shouldn’t be using it because this thing is dangerous. The below information is for educational purposes only. Do not build one! If you go against my advice and do build one, I am not responsible for any injury, death, or any other problems it causes.
Here is a list of the main parts I used to build my air-gap flash:
- Maxwell 35k VDC 0.03uF Pulse Capacitor (used on ebay for $90)
- 25 KV DC power supply
- Custom Circuit Board – schematic below
- 2x 47k 5W Resistors
- 3x .47 uF 500V Caps
- 2x Diodes 1000V 2.5 A
- 2x Fuse Holders
- 200 mA Fuse
- 2 3.5mm Screw Terminal
- 45 kV Trigger Transformer
- 150mm x 25mm Pyrex Test Tube
- 8mm Glass Tubing
- 14V 1A Wall Wart Power Supply
- High Voltage Wire – Need about 2 feet of it
- Kapton Tape
- 2.1mm Power Plug
- 3.5mm Mono Jack
- 1/4″ Lexan Sheet from hardware store
- Reflector from hardware store
- 1/4″ Nylon bolts from hardware store (Nylon is non-conductive)
- 3 prong 120V extension cord from hardware store
Here is a side view. Notice that the reflector has a thin sheet of Plexiglas over it to make cleanup easier. The metal reflector is also grounded in case the plexiglass tubes shatter, and they do shatter sometimes. I have found they last longer if I use latex gloves so no oils from my hands get on the glass tubes.
This is a close up of the glass tubes where the spark happens. The outer glass tube is just for protection and to reduce noise. The inner tube has the wire 45 kV trigger transformer inside. When that transformer is triggered the air ionizes and that cases the big capacitor to discharge in a 1.5 inch spark that creates the flash of light. To seal the inner tube I melt one end with a torch until it is sealed.
Note about using it with the Camera Axe. The Camera Axe only allows a trigger voltage of up to 20V. This has a trigger voltage of 240V so I needed to to put a high voltage protection circuit between this and the Camera Axe. There are many examples of these circuits on the web.
Here are a few results:
Thanks Alan for your help and letting me use some of your amazing photos.